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Bedding down at Bird Rock

By Erich Ebel with Washington our Home - the greatest State inn the lower 48

Bedding down at the Bird Rock Hotel

Whenever I travel around this great state of ours, I always try to find a good place to stay that isn’t a Holiday Inn Express or a Comfort/Quality/Sleep Inn. In fact, my preference is to patronize either a local B&B or an historic property that’s been converted into a hotel (see my posts on the Shelburne Inn, the Olympic Club, and the Marcus Whitman). So, on a recent trip to San Juan Island I was excited to learn that the place I’d be staying was built in 1891, making it one of the oldest hotels on the island established only two years after Washington achieved statehood.

Originally operated as the Tourist Hotel, the Bird Rock Hotel was the first hotel on San Juan Island with indoor plumbing, boasting a restaurant, a bar, a pool hall, and a reception room for the ladies (who were not allowed in the bar). It even featured a dentist, who periodically provided his services in the lobby. Through the years, the hotel has undergone many transformations. It spent time as a hostel, a private residence, a house of ill-repute (maybe the ladies were finally allowed in the bar?), to a famous pizzeria with a hot tub rental place in the basement. It wasn’t until 1999 that the current owner made the decision to return the historic property to its roots. After a number of years, a sizeable investment, and a heap of renovations, the Bird Rock Hotel was born.

I’ve stayed at outdated places that slap a fresh coat of paint over the bricks and update the plumbing and electrical to describe themselves as having “updated amenities” (and some that haven’t bothered to update the plumbing), but the Bird Rock Hotel isn’t in that category. The exterior of the building retains all the charm of a bygone era, complete with free bicycles for patrons to use while exploring the island. It’s clean, has a comfortable feel, and is remarkably quiet given how busy downtown Friday Harbor can get during the busy tourist season. The fact that it shares the block with the town grocery store makes its serenity all the more noteworthy.

The property features a modern check-in process with numerical codes that open doors at precise times. While a 4 p.m. check in time may be later than most hotels, it doesn’t seem to be an issue with so many things to do within a few minutes’ walk around Friday Harbor. Once inside however, it instantly becomes clear that any expectations of antiquated accommodations are completely unfounded. Inside the front door, guests are greeted with a modern sitting room worthy of placement in any chain hotel. The cleanliness is instantly apparent, as is the availability of any room necessities either on the long countertop or in the myriad drawers beneath.

The floors are all level, there is no creaking to be heard, and the sense of modernity is ever-present. It’s a welcome surprise, given the age of the structure itself. It soon becomes clear that the owners have invested quite a bit of time, attention, and funding into making the Bird Rock Hotel one of the premier destinations in Friday Harbor. Halls and stairways are wide and brightly lit, and each room on all three levels of the property has its own name and character. Because I was staying alone for only one night, I stayed in the Skipjack—likely the smallest and least appointed room in the building. It was literally a room with a bed, a dresser, and a TV, and nothing more (not even air conditioning). However, it had access to the balcony from which you could watch seaplanes taking off and landing in the harbor.

Though spartan, the bed was very comfortable, the television channels abundant, and the overhead ceiling fan negated any need for air conditioning on an already breezy island. Two plush bathrobes awaited me upon entry, and a personal note from the staff welcoming me to the property made me feel quite at home. It had a single-serve coffee machine with plenty of pods (not every place does) and reading lamps on both sides of the bed. As the sun set, cracking open the balcony door invited cooler temperatures and island sounds to come wafting in.

While some of the rooms must share a common bathroom with other patrons, at no point did it feel dirty, gross, or uncomfortable. To the contrary, the two guest bathrooms were clean and well-stocked with the proper amenities. One had a roomy shower with a frosted window to allow light while preserving privacy, while the other featured a clawfoot tub for guests who really wanted the historic hotel experience. I stayed on a Thursday night so the hotel likely wasn’t at full capacity, but at no point did I hear any conversation through the walls. In fact, I think I bumped into only one other couple during my stay despite knowing that most of the rooms had been booked for that night.

There are dozens of options from which to choose when staying in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, but perhaps none is able to so aptly blend modern comforts with historical charm. Any heritage tourist would be satisfied at the Bird Rock Hotel, and I will no doubt be looking to stay there again when I return with my family next summer. I highly recommend any island visitors do the same.

1891Bird Rock HotelFriday HarborSan Juan IslandSkipjackThe Tourist Hotel

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About Washington Our Home

My name is Erich Ebel and I love this state. I’ve lived on the green side as well as the brown side. I’ve navigated the rivers and climbed the mountains. I’ve fished its lakes, hiked its trails, marveled at its geology, and studied its fascinating, storied history. I’ve spent the past ten years discovering and sharing stories about Washington’s history, heritage, and culture. My blog, videos, and podcasts hold a treasure trove of interesting facts, unknown facets, and fascinating tales that help to educate the general public about the privileges of being in Washington. I’m the current chair of the City of Lacey Historical Commission, and previously served as Marketing and Communications Director for the Washington State Historical Society and Museum. I’ve been a board member for the Washington Trust for Historic Preservation, and the History Insider for Scenic Washington magazine.

View all posts by Washington Our Home →

San Juan County Fair - the Highlight of Summer on San Juan Island

The fantastic, small town San Juan County Fair ( August 16-19, 2023) is a festive affair in walking distance to the ferry, not to be missed.
This year’s theme is “Dancing with the Steers.” Explore all things San Juan Island from food and craft vendors, beer garden, carnival rides, island-made art, rabbit judging, horse shows, no-till strategies for your home garden, cherry spit contests, to amazing live music until late at night.
Find How to do the San Juan County Fair here.

5 ways to Escape the Summer Heat on San Juan Island

Gorgeous San Juan Island, surrounded by the glistening Salish Sea, usually has extremely pleasant, average summer temperatures in the upper 60s and low 70s with an excellent chance of having an incredible time. In the last few years though we have been experiencing heat waves just like the rest of the country.

 

Here are our 5 favorite ways to escape the summer heat on the isle:

1) Lounge by the Pool

The Earthbox Inn & Spa in the heart of Friday Harbor offers A/C in most of their room styles and is the only hotel on the isle with an indoor pool, jacuzzi and exercise room and a lovely outdoor patio with comfy chairs, umbrellas and lots of flowers to enjoy your summer novel.

2) Explore the Arts

The renowned San Juan Islands Museum of Art is known for its timely exhibitions centering around the Pacific Northwest. All three galleries are air-conditioned. Don’t miss the free Family Art Days on Saturdays in their beautiful, shady orchard.

3) Go on a guided Whale Watching Tour

It’s always 10-15 degrees colder out at sea. Treat yourself to a whale watching tour with San Juan Safaris during the hottest part of the day. Their fast double decker Osprey is not only San Juan Island's largest whale watching boat, Osprey also features a galley with grab and go items, concession snacks, a variety of soda, beer, wine, coffee, water and more for sale.

4) Dine at the Waterfront

Downriggers features a large wrap around deck overlooking the harbor. Their spacious dining room and bar are comfortably air-conditioned. Delight in delectable Pacific Northwest cuisine and handmade cocktails while watching the sailboats bob in the water.

5) Hang at the Beach

The woods come all the way down to the beach at crescent shaped Deadman Bay by the whale watching park. Bring a picnic, watch for whales, go kayaking or for a refreshing dip in the chilly, clear Salish Sea.

5 Seriously Cool Things to do on San Juan Island this June

 

June on San Juan Island is packed with fun activities while leaving plenty of room for solitude, family time and long walks on the beach. Come on up. Join our kind island community. Treat yourself to once-in-a-lifetime adventures and the most delectable food from the “gourmet archipelago”.

Orca Sing

June is Orca Action month. Come celebrate with the touching Orca Sing event on June 24 at 7:00pm at the Whale Watch Park. First Nations speakers, islanders and visitors alike will join in song and drumming and watch for whales. Shuttles from the Friday Harbor Whale Museum are available.

Bioluminescent Kayak Tour

The fabulous San Juan Outfitters offer this very special guided bioluminescent kayaking tour in Summer. Bioluminescents are most active after hot summer days and during the new moon. Book tours from June 12 to June 21.

Pride Festival

Calling all LGBTQIA+ individuals, friends, and allies. Come celebrate Pride Month with live music, amazing food, vendors, artists, connection and fun. On June 17 at the Friday Harbor Fairgrounds, starting at 4:00pm.

Comedy & Wine

What could be better than laughing and local wine? Don’t miss the stand-up comedy on the comfy patio of the at Madrona cellars tasting room on June 24 at 7:00pm. Sip delicious, locally made wine, nibble on a charcuterie platter and giggle, shriek and snicker from the bottom of your heart.

Oyster Farm Tour and Lunch

Treat yourself to a guided farm tour and fresh seafood lunch overlooking the water at the unique and lovely Westcott Bay Shellfish Farm. Open Thursday through Monday. Reservations are a must.

Top Spots for a lovely Mother’s Day Brunch in Friday Harbor

What better way to celebrate the most amazing woman in your life than a leisurely brunch with marvelous food, a mimosa with freshly pressed orange juice, taken in lovely company at a spectacular place? If you find yourself in the cute coastal town of Friday Harbor on Mother’s Day, check out these renowned farm-to-table restaurants for brunch.

COHO

Chef Ryan Lockhart invites to delights like Lox Benedict, Dungeness Crab Omelet and so much more. Served from 9:00am to 1:30pm. Please make reservations. Even though this is a fancy place, utmost comfort is the goal here and PJs are welcome for this event.

Cynthia’s Bistro

Get an outside table in the beautiful garden patio and indulge in Cynthia’s superb pastries, fresh salads and creative, locally sourced small and large dishes. Available 8:00am to 2:00pm. Reservations encouraged.

The Restaurant at Friday Harbor House

Treat your family to classic brunch as well as fresh flavors like smashed avocado toast and yogurt and granola parfaits at this stunning locale situated on a bluff overlooking the harbor with a spacious deck and outdoor fireplace. Served from 8:00am to noon. Reservations required.

Litter Free by the Sea - Earth Day on San Juan Island

Spring into action this Earth Day (Saturday, April 22, 2023) and make our earth a tiny bit better by helping with the Great Island Beach Clean-up on San Juan Island. It’s so rewarding and fun. Everybody meets at the fabulous San Juan Brewery at 10:00am to get bags and gloves and a beach assignment. At 2:00pm we all meet back at the brewery, our garbage in tow. It will be weighed. There are prizes and raffles, live music, free beer for volunteers and a fantastic after party. Our friends at the Earthbox Inn & Spa and the Bird Rock Hotel participate every year (Thank you!). Find more details and why ridding our beaches of micro-plastic is so important in this fun article.

Best Places to spot Baby Wildlife on San Juan Island this Spring

It’s Spring on San Juan Island and everybody is having babies. San Juan’s lush pastures are dotted with baby cows and lambs. On the prairies, Bald Eagles, who mate for life, teach their eaglets how to fly and adorable baby foxes play with each other while Mom is out hunting. Soon the Humpbacks will return from Hawaii, calves in tow. It is a glorious time to come up for a visit. Find the 5 Best Places to spot Baby Wildlife on San Juan Island here.

Photo by Ivan Reiff with Western Prince Whale & Wildlife Tours.

Spring Ferry Reservations open on March 6, 2023

Vehicle reservations on the Washington Sate Ferry for spring travel from Anacortes to Friday Harbor for travel between March 26 and June 17 will become available at 7:00 a.m. PT on Monday, March 6.

30% of spaces are released 2 month before your travel date. An additional 30% are released 2 weeks before. 30% are released 48 hours before with 10% being available for stand-by travel each day. Reservations are highly recommended. No reservations are needed for walk-ons and bikes.

With early Spring the rich cultural offerings on the isle reemerge like the wildflowers on the prairie. Experience the renowned Salish Sea Early Music Festival at Brickworks featuring musicians from all over the world. Explore the three new Spring exhibitions at the Island Museum of Art or the hilarious Alfred Hitchcock play at the community theatre. Check out the new restaurants and shops and treat yourself to a rejuvenating anti-aging facial and a signature massage at the adorable Spa at Earthbox.

Witness the first wildflowers and baby foxes make an appearance, have a sunset picnic on the beach, yoga in the moss on top of a mountain, find a pot of gold on the self-guided St Patti’s Day scavenger hunt or go on the first whale watching tour of the season. Early Spring on San Juan Island is a real treat.

Winter Guide to San Juan Island

One of the best kept secrets about San Juan Island is visiting during Winter, when you have the beaches to yourself and it rains only half as much as in Seattle. Here is our guide for your Winter road trip to San Juan Island, complete with insider tips:

 

Where to Stay

The Earthbox Inn & Spa in Friday Harbor is the only hotel on the island with an indoor heated pool, sauna and hot tub, perfect after a day of hiking or before treating yourself to a soothing massage at their cute day spa. Or check out the historic and super romantic Bird Rock Hotel, just two blocks from the ferry landing, with 15 unique rooms, many featuring two-person jetted tubs, fireplaces and harbor views.

 

Insider Tip: Take advantage of the amazing Winter Specials these hotels are running.

 

 

Where to Eat

For a fancy night out, treat yourself to Downriggers on the waterfront, with its cozy bar and amble seating, reliable service and excellent Pacific Northwest fare. Don’t miss uncomplicated lunch or dinner at San Juan Brewery. Catch some live music and delight in their well-made ales and beers. If you are coming for a special occasion, check out the charming farm-to-table COHO Restaurant, open on all holidays, often featuring themed dinners and wine pairings.

 

Insider Tip: Take a cooking class at COHO (food and fun included) and learn to make a three course local, seasonal feast from the very best.

 

 

Galleries & Museums

Friday Harbor has three acclaimed museums and seven galleries and you can walk to all of them. Start at the Whale Museum, a remarkable natural history museum of our Resident Orca killer whales. Take in the charming Museum of Art, displaying local and regional art. Meander through the grounds of the open-air Historical Museum a few blocks away and see such gems as the first county jail.

 

Insider Tip: Support the Whale Museum by getting your souvenirs from their absolutely adorable gift shop.

 

Wildlife & Birding

The waters around San Juan Island are not only on the whale migration superhighway, but also on the Pacific migratory bird flyway, making Winter wildlife watching on the isle absolutely fabulous. Explore San Juan Island’s south around Cattle Point Lighthouse for some unforgettable birding. Head to Lime Kiln State Park, one of the best places to see Orcas from land in the country.

 

Insider Tip: Next to the Lime Kiln Lighthouse find an interpretive display with a button. Press that button and hear live what’s going on under the water in front of you.

 

Best Beaches

Jackson Beach is just a mile from Friday Harbor. This pretty driftwood and pebble stone beach features a shelter, barbeques, picnic benches and a bathroom. On a stormy day treat yourself to wild South Beach, the isle’s longest beach. Watch otters, foxes, sea lions, eagles and maybe even a family of Orcas while not seeing another human soul for miles.

 

Insider Tip: If it’s just too windy on South Beach, cross the road and hop on over to 4th of July Beach, which is sheltered by forest and calm even on a stormy day.

 

 

Must-do-Hikes

Find the Mt Young trailhead at English Camp National Historical Park. It’s a steep mile and a half to the top with unforgettable views. At Lime Kiln Sate Park go north along the cliffs and come to a rebuilt lime kiln, go further and enter a strange land of lime quarries in the deep woods. On South Beach go north, explore the prairie and its wildlife and find secret beaches.

 

Insider Tip: Treat yourself to a lovely seafood lunch at the Westcott Bay Shellfish Farm near English Camp

7 Not-to-Miss Things to Explore on your Romantic San Juan Island Getaway

Spoil your Sweetie with a romantic getaway to gorgeous San Juan Island this February. It’s so easy and fun. Love is in the air at the cute coastal town of Friday Harbor with its amble shops, galleries and restaurants. Treat yourself to a love-themed 6-course dinner at the utterly romantic Farm-to-Table restaurant COHO, a few blocks from our hotel. Find a beach for just the two of you at the vast and stunning American Camp National Park. Go birding, have a picnic at the whale watching park and renew your commitment to each other in paradise. Find 7 Not-to-Miss Things to Explore on your Romantic San Juan Island Getaway here.

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